surf city usa

today was the day that i finally got over myself and got on a board. throughout my travels, i have had ample time to learn how to surf. but for whatever reason - not having a surf buddy, not having enough money, being a pussy - i never took it up.

but this time it was gonna be different. i wanted to take advantage of this opportunity before i became officially lame and just went for it. after all, what else was i gonna do - i had a whole day at huntington. sure, it's satisfying enough to just lie on the beach all day and get a tan. there is nothing you have to do, but there are so many things you can do. i considered jumping into a random beach v-ball game, but i wasn't feeling that adventurous.

so when i got up (a little jetlagged because i tried staying up late to adjust my body clock, but still woke up very early cuz it was bright and i suck at staying asleep), i took a leisurely walk along the beach and realized that even though it was early on a thursday, it's totally worth getting up early cuz the beach is awesome. so to my surprise people were out and about and i figured i may as well join in on the action.

i rocked up to zack's surf shop right by the pier. the place i was staying had a promotion with them so my lesson was discounted. plus, i used my charm and they threw in a bike rental for the rest of the day. it was sweet. so i had to check out of my room and grab my stuff, but i put the deposit and payment down so there was no looking back. or, if i decided to look back, i would be out $90 and my pride.

so i grabbed my stuff, checked out, headed back. chris was my instructor and a very sweet man. had a lot of patience with me, which is very important in an instructor. apparently i am goofy footed as i lead with my right. so i got up a few times with chris's assistance, but it was hard to stay on for more than a second or 2. but an awesome first try for somebody who has not stepped on a board unless it was nailed to the ground. and part of the floor.

after an hour, chris's time was up with me. he had to catch his son's baseball game. so i had to venture off on my own. which was equally exciting and terrifying. so i took a bit of a breather and watched other boys do it. to learn. and also to ogle at their beauty. plus, there was a amateur surf comp on the other side of the pier, which i easily could've just spent all day watching. but i'm glad i got in on the fun.


.
..clearly, however, i forgot a lot about what he told me in terms of holding the board while i was idle. because not to long in my solo adventure, did i smoke the back of my head on something. the beach floor? my board? whatever it was, it startled me a little. yet i thought it was still a brilliant idea to motor on. so i did.
and this time i really disobeyed one of chris's rules, cuz this time the board nailed me in the face. my lower lip prety much doubled in size. i looked like i had a harelip. like i was perpetually pouting. my lip is already big as it is. i owned over anjelina.







so yeah, had to take more of a breather because i was bleeding and a little more embarrased at that point. but i went over for a couple more times then i dragged my board to zack's and had chris check out my lip. he mentioned getting the lifeguard check it out. to which i laughed because i thought he was joking. but apparentlysomething serious can come out of a lip-smoking injury. i was good to go, but i also thought of how in '04 i had to go to the lifeguard station cuz of my stingray sting. huntington beach is not my fan.

it was good enough timing cuz i had a good time to enjoy lunch in the sun on the pier and catch some babes
catchin waves.














it made me wish more and more that i grew up in cali, convinced that if that were the case, i would be a pro surfer with the coolest tude. i'd have babes left right and centre and we'd surf everywhere and all that other rad stuff.
alas. i grew up in canada. and whilst i could have embraced the winter and ski culture, well... fuck that. snow can lick my balls.

so after my sushi salad and boy ogling, the girls turn came up and and i promptly lost interest, just in time to rent a bike and get some good tannage. i got this toothpaste green cruiser and my camera and ipod and i went as far south as newport beach, then the bike path kinda disappeared and i didnt know where to jump on again. so i turned around and went as north as sunset beach till it ended. all in all it took me about 2ish hours? and the views were beautiful. i have no idea why it took me so long to think to rent a bike. i couldve been way more active during previous trips.
oh well, live and learn.

around 4:30, i returned my bike. bought some hip shades from zack's and lay in the grass with an icepack to my lip as i waited for my mother to pick me up and take me to l.a.
a lovely start to my trip in cali... and still, it got better and better from there...



2 Responses
  1. Anonymous Says:

    You actually believe that that cat deserved to be thrown into the fire???!!! The cat was not evil, you were the EVIL ones. How could you treat living creatures that way? What gives you the right to harm animals like that? I can't believe there are people like you in this world.


  2. nikki sp Says:

    are you serious? that cat wasn't living. that cat was a figurine. a stuffed animal.
    there is no way we would harm animals like that. get a sense of humour.